Sunday, September 14, 2014

An event of a lifetime!

The Regatta was a smashing success!  Where do I begin?  Well, before I begin, let me jus say that the weekend absolutely surpassed any expectations I had and by the end of this blog I am sure you will agree that it was one amazing time!  

Ok, we started at 3:30a taking a Govt vehicle to a port town on the northern coast.  Once we got to the port we needed to wait because the mayor was being driven separately and hadn't made it yet so the group, excepting me, ate a hearty breakfast of….  you guessed it fish parts in broth!  Once the mayor arrived we boarded a small boat and headed off.  About one hour into the voyage, I was informed that we were going to make a slight detour because the mayor wanted to show me something.  Ok, whatever, Ive grown pretty used to going with the flow, right?

Well, the sun is shining, blue skies all around and what do we happen upon but the most beautiful island with white sandy beaches and blue water.  The mayor informed me that this is his private island - probably 150 acres or so.  We jumped out and lo and behold this man appeared out of no where - I mean the island was otherwise deserted.  The man proceeds to climb up a bunch of coconut trees and suddenly coconuts are falling!  So we feasted on coconut water and fresh coconut jelly!!!!  Soooo gooood and such a beautiful spot!  Idyllic! 

Anyway, we make it to the Regatta destination, a barangay called Balaton.  We climb the hundred or so steps from the dock to the church overlooking the sea and who should we be met by but the Archbishop of entire region!  Another feast ensues - fresh fish, squid, crab, and I am seated at the right hand of the Archbishop and just next to the mayor, his wife and his son.  Well, the Archbishop just could not have been nicer - his english was spot on and we quickly developed a great rapport!  I really felt honored to be sitting there in that company, I have to say.  

After this feast, we headed out to our quarters - the local school.  All eleven northern barangays had representatives there and each barangay took over a room, or rooms where people rolled out sheets.  We did the same.   This is definitely NOT the Holiday Inn, folks!  No running water and cooking was done in firepits.   You can pretty easily imagine what happened next… the beer was purchased, the cards broke out, the food was everywhere and we just had a great time until sometime around 3:30am!

Next day, we wake early and head out on a mission to visit as many local barangays as we can.  But before we do, we get to watch the races begin!  Just like I thought, its a rowing thing.. with each barangay laying claim to the best boat and the best cocksmen (I think that what they're called).  So much color and excitement!!!

Well, we jump in our boat sort of keep pace with the racers for awhile but then veer off to do our site visits.  I was interested to see just how vulnerable these rural locations actually are… and oh man, can I tell you that they are so flipping vulnerable.  Folks living, I mean, right on the water.. sometimes, over the water!  At times, there is no elevation, and other times there are steep mountains right next to these villages.  The mountains just scream landslide, and in fact, we saw several sights that had experienced landslides.  So, there is vulnerability from wind, from storm surge, from mudslides, from tsunami and of course, from earthquakes!  We did our best to scout out potential safe evacuation center sites but sometimes the topography just makes safety impossible  Its also clear that relocation of many of these communities is going to be impossible as well since in many cases, there is nowhere to safely relocate to. 

Ok, so the travel between these barangays is just amazing… something right out of ‘Apocolypse Now’.  If you've seen that movie… they are boating up a river to Cambodia…. Well, hey, Cambodia is not far away and these rivers are exactly like that.  Healthy mangroves, and nipa palm, and man it was amazing!  

We get back to base, as it were and I ask to speak to all the Barangays Captains individually since they all were at the Regatta - what an opportunity!  I wanted to introduce myself and explain the plan that is forming in my head (essentially my mission here) about what we are going to do to improve the situation.  Well, this was promptly accomplished and I was really pleased to have done this important bit of networking.

There were all sorts of activities going on - basketball tournaments, cock fighting, volleyball and everyone is having such a great time, including me. At one point, the Barangay captain of Balaton (our host) walks over to me with this giant fish… I mean this fish was fat, and like 3 ft long (no fish tale here!)!  He does his best to explain to me that he had just caught this fish and that he wanted to give it to me!!  I am not kidding!  So, I try and tell him I just have no idea what I wold do with this 20 pound monster, but he is not deterred and keeps telling me that he is going to give it to me.  Well, I thank him and go on my way.  it was so funny!

But, the icing on the cake has yet to come!  Soon it is time for the nights festivities - which is…. a beauty pageant!   How fun!  I am given a special seat next to the mayor and his family right in front just behind the judges.  I am introduced to the audience of around 500 very ceremoniously as a Peace Corps representative and I had so much fun watching the event!  I mean talk about soaking in culture!!!  It was an experience of a lifetime!!  There are eleven contestants and this is narrowed to five and everyone in the crowd is having such a great time and once the competitions are complete  and they tally up winner, guess who gets asked to crown Miss Lagonoy???  Yep, that would be me!!  What an honor!!!  Miss Lagonoy was stunningly beautiful I might add and was my pick to win from the very first (which I took some pride in telling anyone who would listen).  

After the pageant, it is party time again.…. By now its about midnight and the area is quickly turned into a club scene, albeit outdoors, and the music starts thumping and the dancing starts!  Suddenly, we are surrounded by transvestites!  They are everywhere!  And a crazy thing happens - They start dancing with the guys and the guys dont mind at all… I mean not slow dancing, serious dancing nonetheless…. I danced with a few of these hotties I am proud to say and would add that it was so much fun and just so funny at the same time - I mean really really funny!  Everyone was having such a blast!!

So, around 3 I figure I had to head back up to my spot on the floor and once I get there, who shows up?  The man with the fish!!!  And it is cooked and we call the guys in and have a feast on what I have to say was the tastiest fish I have ever eaten.  I was told by some of my friends there that this fish is known to be the tastiest fish in the ocean… and it was.. and it was just so great and the man who gave me the fish was just so proud to have done it!   Just perfect!  This was the highlight of my experience!!  I ended up crashing at around 4 completely satiated and when I was awoken at 5 by my team leader, the music was still in full swing.  We needed to head out, via boat for the return trip and had to make an early departure.  

As you can imagine, I was pretty tired and a little hungover for the rest of the day!  So, that was my experience and I can say that out of it, I have so much to reflect on, I could fill blog after blog.. which I hope to do!





Tomorrow, I awake at 5 so that I can be an honorary judge of a cooking contest happening in my barangay tomorrow.  And then guess what??  Another pageant is tomorrow night, here, in my hometown!!!  

Monday, September 8, 2014

Regatta!

Everyone at work is getting ready for the upcoming Regatta!  It seems as if nearly all of the municipal government is heading out for the event, which is outside of Lagonoy proper, up and over a mountain and then down the other side to the north coastline., probably a 2 hour drive.  And I will be going as well!  I will be staying with a whole bunch of people - They say we will be camping.  Im not exactly sure what that means, but I have been told to bring lots of mosquito repellant!  Oh boy!  I dont have a sleeping bag, so I suppose I’ll just bring some sheets.  I think the sleeping will be on the ground.  This Regatta is a big deal.  My crew is bringing with us two (2) pigs which will be slaughtered when we get there for food!!!  Why do it this way you ask?  Because we have no refrigeration!  And apparently we have about 50 chickens as well.  

The Regatta is a yearly event that has been going on for ages.  Its all about boat racing and Im thinking its a rowing sort of thing (think crew, filipino style) with a bunch of races done by age group and then an overall race regatta champion!  Im told that there is a sort of ‘Babe Ruth’ of this competition… He’s an older man who has won the large solo event year after year.  Sounds like fun!

In other news, I was in the mayors office today trying to act busy and what should walk in but an entire wedding party!   Well, it seems as if the mayor marries people!!!  Apparently, this is done often because the mayor does the ceremony for free but the churches charge a lot.  The couple looked so cute, he is his best pressed barongg, and she in a white wedding dress that had obviously been in the family for who knows how long!  I snuck into a little closet adjacent to the mayors office so I could hear and see the whole thing without disturbing the moment!  So sneaky, I am!!

Now, I can hear loudspeakers down the road and I was asking what all the fuss was about.  Seems as if there are no invitations for the wedding reception - the entire barangay is invited to attend.  It is a custom that money is pinned to the brides dress by all the neighbors, family and other folks attending.  I know there are similar customs in other cultures.  Of course, our custom is to just put the money in an envelope - so boring, right???.  Anyway, I was told I definitely should NOT go to the party bc as an americano they would think I was coming to bestow on the bride a large sum of money!!!  Better to avoid that confrontation!  


Stay tuned for Regatta pics!  Oh, and let me say just one thing more… Insects rule the world.  Make no mistake.  When we are dead and gone the insects will live on.  They will probably mutate in Darwinian fashion into some super creature.  There are so many insects here.. Mosquitos of every color and size, ants… you don't know ants until you leave a crumb of food on your outdoor stove.   Little bugs.. Big bugs… Spiders… so much diversity!!!

Saturday, September 6, 2014

reflections

As I think Ive mentioned before, every day I am taking time to read two pages from the Dhammapada.  I just open it at random and feast, as it were.  Here is todays lesson:

He leaves his home, seeking
Happiness on the hard road.

Free from desire,
Free from possessions,
Free from the dark places of the heart.

Free from attachment and appetite,
Following the seven lights of awakening,

And rejoicing greatly in his freedom,
In this world of the wise man
Becomes himself a light,
Pure, shining, free.


There is nothing more I can add...

Friday, September 5, 2014

OMG - it happened just like that!   I was sitting with a group of guys and my turn for karaoke can up and then.... I had to find my "go to" song...  anyone who knows the sport of karaoke knows the concept of the goto song.....   as it turns out, mine was "Let It Be"!  

"whisper words of wisdom...."  oh, how perfect a night.  TYG

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

A Sensational Experience!

In my last post on extremes, I forgot to mention perhaps the most obvious difference between my life in Lagonoy vs. Phoenix - the Rain!  It has rained every single day since my arrival.  Not that it is raining endlessly, but the skies are always ominous and every now and again they open.   Therefore, the air is always heavy in a way that I had forgotten about, given my time in the desert!  

Ok, so it’s 8a and Ive already had my first adventure for the day.  Lets describe it:


I awoke in the way I am now growing accustomed - I rise around 4ish with the roosters and slowly make my way to the kitchen, which is outside. I make myself a nice cup of instant coffee and then vegetate for a bit in my outdoor dining/living room.  At some point, I fix myself a breakfast - typically oatmeal with fruit and a glass of instant milk.  By the way, Ive always hated instant milk but Im finding it amazing how one can choose to like things just by willing it so!  So, I eat my oatmeal and then spend some time on the computer journalling or playing a computer game or something, or maybe I just sit and read.  On about 7a, I make it to the shower - oh, thats another extreme - I havent had a warm shower in a month - anyway, I take my shower and do my business…..  I say all this because thats exactly how today started.  EXCEPT… .after I towel off and go to put on my clothes, I am suddenly feeling a zillion tingly bites all over my body!  When I examine further it turns out that my bath towel had become infested with tiny ants during the night and I had just done a great job of covering my body with them!!!  And they were as unhappy about this as I!   Pretty uncomfortable situation, especially (at the risk of being TMI) in the private areas, that are, as it happens, a bit more hairy than the other areas of my body!!!!!   And these ants were teeny tiny!!   So, I jumped back in the shower and tried my best to scrub them away.  Im at work now and dont you know… I just found a few more of those guys crawling on me!  

Extremes

Ok... here are some of the ways in which my life has changed in the past month or so:


  • Day is night, and night is day  (Phoenix is 15 hrs behind Manila)
  • I feel no work related stress
  • I have not seen an airplane in the sky for 2 weeks
  • I have not eaten dinner indoors in 2 weeks
  • I have not had fresh brewed coffee in 2 weeks
  • I have eaten rice every day for one month
  • I have not looked in a mirror for 2 weeks
  • I have not driven a car in over one month
  • My diet has completely changed
  • I have not used toilet paper in 2 weeks ( don't worry, they have better alternatives!)
  • I have not seen TV in one month
  • I have not had cows milk in one month
so, thats just a taste of the difference.  I am loving the challenge of it all!  Tonight I walked down the street after my dinner of rice, beans and greens.  I found a few men hanging around a stand and pulled up a chair and bought a beer for the group!  What a nice group of people!  By the end of the engagement, they had bought peanuts for me an invited me to a birthday celebration!  An honor!  As hard as it is at times, there ARE times that make the whole thing worthwhile!

Monday, September 1, 2014

Travels

On Sunday, I awoke at around 3:30a and decided that I wanted to take a trip.  So, I made myself a breakfast of eggs and rice and then headed off for the bus station that is down the road.  I jumped on a  bus headed for the town of Naga.   I needed to go to a mall because there were things I was looking to buy that I can't seem to get in Goa - namely a kerosene lamp.  I am also on the hunt for a cheap radio and some spices.  I am surprised that Ive been unable to find any real spices out here, beyond fish sauce, salt or ginger.  Im sure that other spices are staring me right in the face, I have no idea how to cook with them.

The trip was amazing.  No air con, so all the windows of the bus were open and this allowed me to watch the sun rise over the rice paddies as we drove.  The air was cool and the scenery was dramatic with farmers in their chinese straw hats working the fields with their oxen - nice!  Anyway, I got to Naga around 7a and of course, nothing was open so I did a bit of walking.  As best I can tell, Naga has 3 or maybe even 4 Universities, so there are a lot of young people and a lot of commerce.  I found a mall but the mall didn't open until 10a so I had to sit and wait awhile. It wasn't long before I fell into a conversation with a nice guy named Emerson.  Emerson was probably 25, and about 5'2" - a very slight guy.  The only reason that is important is in how he makes his living.  It seems Emerson is a paid mercenary.  His job is to travel to Syria for 6 months at a time and work to keep peace.  Then, he comes back to Naga and spends 6 months with his family.   Now, THAT is a different sort of job, eh? When the mall opened, Emerson fell into step with me and soon he became my Kasama.  Luckily, Naga has an Ace store (!) so I got my kerosene lamp and I found my spices (green curry paste and chili powder) at a supermarket.  I bought Emerson a coffee and pastry and then we parted ways at the bus station, before my 2 hour trip back to Lagonoy.  Success!!  Now, I have a friend in Naga who I can call on the next time I am in that town!

Yesterday, I did more travelog. Like I said in a previous post, Monday was the day picked for me to be received by officials in Legazpi City.  Well, what I didn't recognize was that the trip coincided with an event being sponsored by Legazpi City - a 5k run/walk to honor Civil Servants!  My entourage consisted of around 20 people all traveling for the event!  The Mayor of Lagonoy himself attending!

Legazpi City is even larger than Naga and as Ive said, but is dwarfed by the majestic Mt Mayon, a perfect conal volcano that currently erupting!  There is actually steam coming from the top of the cone - I have never seen that before!  Anyway, the trip itself took around 3 hours. We travelled via a short cut that took us along the coast of Lagonoy Bay... lots of hair pin turns and mountain scenery.  Very beautiful.  Once in the town, Carlos and I split with the group and headed for the govt office for my introduction.  After a brief wait, we were met by a very nice lady who proceeded to give me  a powerpoint presentation on the Bicol area relative to important economic demographic data. I was impressed!  The Bicol area has a high level of overall education relative to the rest of the Philippines but suffers from underemployment.  Women and men equally hold positions of professional responsibility but, of course, men still make more money than women. Malnutrition remains a problem as well.

Anyway, after the presentation Carlos and I headed back to find the group and we quickly found ourselves at the site of the 5K event!!!  There were over 1000 people and everyone wore event tshirts (Carlos and I didn't have one).  The event site was on the blacksand beach overlooking Mt Mayon.      I was amazed to watch the following event unfold:

First, there was an opening ceremony that began with prayer.  Then, the skies opened up and rain began to pelt down on everyone.  Very few ran for cover however!  A lady jumped on stage and announced that prior to the 5k what we needed was something to get us all in the spirit!  So, as the rain fell, she asked for some volunteers to come on stage for a Zumba demonstration!  The music starts pumping and before you know it, 1000+ people are doing Zumba in the pouring rain - I mean to tell you EVERYONE joined in!!!  I was stunned!! And, as if this weren't enough - the Zumba kept going for well over 30 minutes!!!!!  Im no Zumba expert, but I don't think this was newbie Zumba either!   This Zumba got your heart pumping!

Ok, so Im watching this... sweating and dripping with rain, thinking, surely they have decided that the Zumba should replace the 5k due to the rain - but NO - after the music died down, they lined everyone up and the 5k officially began... by now the rain is falling in buckets.  My party decided that it might be best to skip the 5k (after all, we were rather Zumba'd out!) and head for the vans.  Which we did. Given the pelting rain, I thought the party was over.  Everyone piled in the two vans and then..... we sat.  By this time, it was around 4p and, with a 3 hour drive back to Lagonoy, I was expecting that we would be back by 7.  But, the vans did not go!!  And I didn't understand!!! And no one seemed to care that the the temp in the van was about 300 and it was pouring rain and everyone was sweaty from Zumba!!!  And the gay guy who weighs about 250 decides to take his shirt off as he just flames away!!   What a flippin' scene!  I tell you no exaggeration, that the rain continued on and we sat in those vans for 2 HOURS - I was so confused!  I mean, everyone else seemed to be having a nice time laughing and talking..... but it was really quite uncomfortable (for me at least) since the language is not english and the heat and humidity was over the top.

So, just like that - 6:00 hits and this must have been the time, because both vans move into gear and we begin our journey back home.  Wow, what a day!!!  I have to say, it was the first time since my arrival that I really started to feel some irritation.  I felt as if I was a cultural hostage because I couldn't just ASK - "Yo, why the hell aren't we going home?"

Here's the thing... these 20 people in the vans... yes, they work together... but in another way, it is obvious to observe that they are close knit... like a family!  I am sure that the whole event was like one big picnic for them... a paid day away from the office that allowed them to bond and tell stories and laugh etc., etc!  And, I was allowed a window into that very personal, cultural event - and I am grateful!  Namaste'